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While it's often a successful approach to pair the regional food of Italy with the local wines-think of the thrilling aromatic interplay of Alba white truffles with mature Barolo or Bistecca Fiorentina refreshed by the angular cut of San-giovese - the wines of Campania, particularly the indigenous red wines based on the noble grape Aglianico, are rarely helpful with pizza. This doesn't mean they aren't great wines; it's just that their firmly tannic structure tends to fight with the sweetness of San Marzano tomatoes, the delicacy of Mozzarella di Bufala, and the blistered dough of Naplitano pizza. They need a well-marbled piece of lamb or rich pasta with sausages and cheese to show their best. This might be why the pizza accompaniment of choice in Naples seems to be either Peroni Lager or Coca-Cola.
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